At the end of part two, the fore-grip was carved, and allthough I had re-worked the rope-work, as of yet I have not really discussed it.
Rope-work is relatively straight-forward, but painstaking carving.
First lay-out and carve a long, thin, square-section, ‘tube’ then round over the corners to make a rounded cylindrical shape.
Next make a paper template of the strands for the rope, about 5cm (2 inches) long and use it to mark up the carving (you can fore-go the marking and just use the paper template as a cutting guide if you have enough skill/confidence).
Cut a stop-cut vertically into the cylinder along each mark.
Using a straight blade, cut a chamfer into the stop-cut using two sets of strokes – a steep cut and a shallow cut to produce a curve.
Repeat this on the other side of the stop-cut to complete the process for each strand.
On this stock, the rope-work is a relief carving, that is to say it is not actually round, it just gives the impression of being round. Still, the carving process is broadly the same as outlined above :
The long rectangular-section area to be carved is outlined with a v-tool.
The edges are rounded over.
The diagonal area to the upper right of this image shows the rope-work marked out and stop-cut, the rope-work is well-advanced elsewhere.
The section nearly completed, There is a small amount of refining needed, but the work is done, including pricking-out the ‘eyes’ where the rope is undercut – a small but very important step that creates a shadow beneath the rope and gives it the appearance of sitting on the background.